Hà Nội 2013

We returned to Hà Nội, from Sa Pa, on 3 August at 05:00 and had two hours to fill in before breakfast would be available on the way to our hotel we stopped at the huge flower market just as the first heavy drops of rain, from what turned out to be Tropical Storm Jebi (not quite a typhoon), started falling. Curtailing our walk around, but we’d tarried sufficiently so that when we arrived at the hotel breakfast was being served- even though our rooms weren’t yet available. Meanwhile outside, the storm was picking up intensity and near horizontal rain was pelting the hotel windows, at its peak winds were measured by NASA at 83.3 kph. After breakfast we waited in the foyer for room assignment, although one of our group was smart enough to slip the desk some money and was immediatley ushered to a room. While we were waiting, another tour group was given the sad news their overnight trip to Hạ Long Bay was cancelled due to the storm.

Around lunchtime their was a minor and short break in the weather so I went out for some lunch before heading off to see Chùa Một Cột - One Pillar Pagoda, which turned out to be closed. I thought I’d walk back to the hotel and managed to get totally bamboozled by the streets and a lack of GPS, which didn’t bother me too much until the rain started pelting down again and with it the realisation that I had to return to the hotel in time to meet the Tour Director and be introduced to the people joining the next leg. I ended up around Hồ Tây (West Lake) and grabbed a passing taxi and almost immediately the driver was pulled over by the traffic police and made to get out of the taxi into the pelting rain with his hands folded behind his head while being upbraided by the policeman wearing full wet weather gear, he then returned grabbed some money and paid an “on the spot fine”- I gave him extra money when we made it to the hotel. Adventures done for the day.

Next morning we went on tour to Lăng Chủ tịch Hồ Chí Minh - Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum, very solemn, very waxwork like, no photos and hurry through. Then onto the adjacent Phủ Chủ tịch - Presidential Palace including Hồ Chí Minh’s simple wooden bungalow and Chùa Một Cột - One Pillar Pagoda before heading off to Văn Miếu Quốc Tử Giám - Temple of Literature, I could have done with more time at the Temple of Literature, which I haven’t yet managed to return to in further visits- next time.

If we hadn’t gone all tourist in the morning we sure did in the afternoon by having a cyclo ride through the Hà Nội old quarter, interesting to see how similar shops clump together into distinct stretches, I would have preferred to meander about on foot- as I have done several times since. After the ride we were dropped off at the Nhà Hát Múa Rối Thăng Long - Thăng Long Water Puppet Theatre opposite Hồ Hoàn Kiếm - Hoàn Kiếm Lake. I paid the fee to allow me to take photos during the show but they’re not good enough to post- but do see it for yourself!

The theatre seating was clearly designed for an Asian audience, most of us Europeans had our legs jammed against the back of the seat in front- it would have been impossible during the performance if anyone would have needed to get out of their row in a hurry. Still the show was pretty impressive, it’s performed in a pool of water with puppets manipulated on long poles so they appear the skim the surface to the accompaniment of music performed on traditional instruments. The program was a series of short sketches depicting ancient village life, agricultural harvests and dances of mythical creatures, including the famous Legend of the Restored Sword of King Le which tells the tale of Hồ Hoàn Kiếm and the giant tortoise. The water puppet tradition dates back to the 11th century and was originally performed by peasants in flooded rice paddies, possibly as part of a harvest festival. See Wikipedia.

Later I went out to diner with a couple of other people on the tour to the Green Tangerine Restaurant, it was so good I make a point of returning for dinner when I’m in Hà Nội (only three other times, wish it was more), unfortunately it’s currently temporarily closed due to COVID-19.